Freeriding in the Kleinwalsertal | © Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen | Photographer: Frank Drechsel

16 Jan. 2018 · Winter Activities
Sissi Pärsch

Reunion on the Gottesacker plateau

“I know you said, it beforehand – but it’s huge!” Eliane can’t take her eyes off the Ifen. And I’m sitting next to her on the chair lift with a broad “told you so” grin on my face. The Ifen is a safe bet if you want to impress people. I’m also grinning because I know that’s just the first of many “Wows!” to come. However, there is one thing I do not suspect: just how much this weekend on the Gottesacker plateau will blow me away too...
 

“I know you said, it beforehand – but it’s huge!” Eliane can’t take her eyes off the Ifen. And I’m sitting next to her on the chair lift with a broad “told you so” grin on my face. The Ifen is a safe bet if you want to impress people. I’m also grinning because I know that’s just the first of many “Wows!” to come. However, there is one thing I do not suspect: just how much this weekend on the Gottesacker plateau will blow me away too...
 

 Ski tour at the Gottesacker | © Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen | Photographer: Frank Drechsel

Treading the path together

It’s a little ironic: A device that splits in two is bringing us together. I have always skied. Eliane has always been a snowboarder. So when we were younger, we never met on the snow. In those days, prejudices were entrenched and there was a clear division between the two groups. They couldn’t stand us - and it was mutual. 

Thankfully we have got wiser with age - or at least more tolerant. More and more, I spent time with snowboarders, both on piste and in powder. But no sooner had we got used to each other than we parted ways again: I discovered ski-touring and was drawn more and more to the backcountry. There weren’t many snowboarders that could keep up: too complicated, too difficult, too frustrating. 

Then, a few years ago, the splitboard appeared: a snowboard that splits along its length for the touring ascent, with bindings that can
be mounted straight or sideways. This meant that snowboarders could climb using skins too, and without snowshoes or short skis, and especially, without a heavy snowboard on their backs. So now we’re together again. If you compare the two halves of the splitboard to a pair of touring skis, the difference isn’t that big, or better said, that wide. 

Skitour at the Gottesacker | © Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen | Photographer: Frank Drechsel

Dreamlike days in the beautiful valley

For so long, I have wanted to show Eliane Kleinwalsertal. Maybe because she’s like the valley in a way: they’re both very relaxed, yet exciting at the same time. Both are worthy of a journey of discovery: they have a lot to offer, but don’t shout it from the rooftops. My arguments to convince her: a gorgeous valley, natural snow on the Ifen lifts (already a dream for snowboarders), and a tour through a totally unique landscape. She didn’t need to be asked twice...
 

So first of all, we enjoyed a wonderful day on piste on the beautiful natural snow at the foot of the Ifen. The sun shone in textbook fashion, while all the clouds seemed to have been sucked down into the lowlands. While enjoying a drink in the Auenhütte at the end of the day, we realised that we hadn’t had a Plan B. Bad weather? We hadn’t even considered it. When angels travel... - whether on skis or on a snowboard. 

The pampering continued in our accommodation at the Hotel Gemma. A bit of floating in the pool, more gossip on the loungers, then too much dinner, because the owner, who also runs the kitchen, is such a wonderful cook. 

 Ski tour at the Gottesacker | © Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen | Photographer: Frank Drechsel

The plan was that Wow-Effect

Day 2 would be our day of hard work. I’ve always wanted to cross the Gottesacker plateau in winter. I’ve heard people raving about this very special playground. The des
cents aren’t too difficult, and the ascents won’t take everything out of you. But it’s still somewhat rugged terrain, and therefore not suitable in bad conditions, and only accessible to those with local knowledge or accompanied by a guide.

With Franky, we made the right decision twice. He’s not just a ski guide, but also a photographer. As a guide, he showed us some of the best descents (and enjoyed them himself too, if his whoops of joy were anything to go by). And his photographer’s eye led us unerringly to the most beautiful corner of the Gottesacker plateau. It’s the truth! In fact, it’s an all-in-one playground for us tourers; manageable ascents, wide slopes, gentle cruising through off-piste terrain - and a final descent that has us all rejoicing, splitboarder, skitourer and even our guide, who is probably one of the best freeriders in the valley. 

Splitboard tour at the Gottesacker | © Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen | Photographer: Frank Drechsel

Stony folds and sophisticated descents

We ascend in the gondola again and complete the short climb to Hahnenköpfle. Up here, not only do we have a spectacular view of the mountain world (the valley below, including Lake Constance, presents itself as a sea of clouds), but even as laymen in terms of stone, we recognise the peculiarities of the rocks around us. Fold upon fold of “Schrattenkalk” limestone extend in front of our eyes. We clip in and Franky allows us a short descent through the powder on the shaded slope. For the three summits, we put on skins. Eliane picks up the technique surprisingly quickly - perhaps because she is highly motivated. Then Franky leads us over the Gottesacker into the Löwental. As we lurch down towards him, he beams at us.

“Pretty, pretty, good. Wow!” “Yeah, even though...” says Franky, pausing dramatically, “we’re actually on German soil here.” That gives us two German gals even more to cheer about. We have no objections, however, when our Kleinwalsertal guide takes us back to the Gottesacker saddle and thus back to Austria.

 Freeride downhill in deep snow | © Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen | Photographer: Frank Drechsel

Meditative ascent, massive descent

We begin the ascent quite gently. There isn’t a soul in sight. The slopes lie, pristine, in front of us. A few four-legged tracks and some small holes made by ptarmigans. Nothing else. Meditatively, we skin our way through the white expanse. Suddenly we are on the crest of a hill, looking over to the ski area on Ifen to our right. But we are headed left. For a good half-hour, we swing through mountain pines, hop over small rises, leaving our tracks behind us on the slope.

The descent via Schmalzboden ends up on a meandering cat-track through the forest, and suddenly we find ourselves on the crosscountry trail in Wäldele. Stride, repeat. Silence reigns. There is no need for words between the three of us now. Although. Franky does then utter one sentence: “Fancy an aprés cappuccino in s’Hirscheck?” Spiltboarder and skier are unanimous: “Don’t forget the aprés cake!” 

Sonnenaufgang auf der Kanzelwandbahn | © Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen | Fotograf: David Kögler

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